![]() Also check to see if that powered tool has a setting on the trigger for single-fire only (until the trigger -and- the safety nosepiece both are released and reset) as opposed to slam-fire/sequential-fire mode (many pneumatic nailers/hammer/staplers have those two firing modes). If you lightly hold the tool and lightly squeeze the trigger, the tool will often rebound off the workpiece when you first trip the trigger and then your ‘slow’ muscles push the tool against the work again and then your finger trips the trigger again and the cycle repeats. Instead of “just barely squeezing the trigger”, get the tool into position, push it FIRMLY against the workpiece, and then quickly and firmly squeeze the trigger. That usually means you have to push down onto the stapler right over where the staple is going into the work to help make sure that the stapler is tight against the workpiece and that it stays that way while the staple is being driven in (in the blink of an eye). High-low feature for hard and soft materials. ![]() All metal drive channel for more penetration. ![]() Heavy duty design for more driving power. If the energy that was trying to drive the staple into the work instead goes into pushing the stapler UP, then the staple often doesn’t drive in fully because of the ‘lost’ energy and because the stapler is now off of the workpiece. Uses Stanley SharpShooter TRA700 Series or Arrow T-50 heavy duty staples and 1/2'-, 9/16'- and 5/8' brads. With most staplers, you have to make sure that they don’t rebound off the work surface as you are trying to get the staple to go -into- the workpiece. The Stanley Tre500 Can use brads, Brad Type Code is, TRN120 and TRN580, Taken straight from the label on mine. ![]()
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